Upgrading From a 9 Speed Sora Derailleur? The Next CEO of Stack OverflowNoisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)Derailleur twitching in low gearsIs the 9-speed Sora crankset compatible with 105 11-speed chain?Indexing issues on new build, shimano 105 5800Noisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)Will Shimano M6000 Rear Derailleur SG (medium cage) work with cassette other then 42t?Replacing Spark 720 2015 derailleur + hanger using markingsUltegra 6800 shifter with R8000 rear derailleur?Rear derailleur cage hits largest cog on cassetteCannot shift to lowest gear - chain too short?Change Derailleur on CX Bike

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Upgrading From a 9 Speed Sora Derailleur?



The Next CEO of Stack OverflowNoisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)Derailleur twitching in low gearsIs the 9-speed Sora crankset compatible with 105 11-speed chain?Indexing issues on new build, shimano 105 5800Noisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)Will Shimano M6000 Rear Derailleur SG (medium cage) work with cassette other then 42t?Replacing Spark 720 2015 derailleur + hanger using markingsUltegra 6800 shifter with R8000 rear derailleur?Rear derailleur cage hits largest cog on cassetteCannot shift to lowest gear - chain too short?Change Derailleur on CX Bike










1















enter image description hereI bought a bike on Ebay which has a Sora groupset. The rear derailleur is noisy and jumps in and out of gears despite much tweaking. I've given up on it.



What derailleur can I buy that will work as a drop-in replace of the Sora derailleur without my having to also change the cassette or shifters?



The Sora is either medium or long cage - not sure which. It has approx 3.25 inches between jockey wheel centers.



Cassette has 32 teeth on largest ring.



EDIT: Just found someone else with the same problem. Mine sounds much the same as this: Noisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)



TY!










share|improve this question









New contributor




Claud is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • That's not inherent to 9 speed sora - I've got the same. I assume it's clean, but has it done a lot of distance? How old are the cables?

    – Chris H
    2 hours ago











  • I've read positive reviews on the Sora - is it possible the derailleur or the derailleur hanger is bent?

    – David D
    2 hours ago












  • Photo added. Excuse excessive lubrication which has helped some.

    – Claud
    1 hour ago















1















enter image description hereI bought a bike on Ebay which has a Sora groupset. The rear derailleur is noisy and jumps in and out of gears despite much tweaking. I've given up on it.



What derailleur can I buy that will work as a drop-in replace of the Sora derailleur without my having to also change the cassette or shifters?



The Sora is either medium or long cage - not sure which. It has approx 3.25 inches between jockey wheel centers.



Cassette has 32 teeth on largest ring.



EDIT: Just found someone else with the same problem. Mine sounds much the same as this: Noisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)



TY!










share|improve this question









New contributor




Claud is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • That's not inherent to 9 speed sora - I've got the same. I assume it's clean, but has it done a lot of distance? How old are the cables?

    – Chris H
    2 hours ago











  • I've read positive reviews on the Sora - is it possible the derailleur or the derailleur hanger is bent?

    – David D
    2 hours ago












  • Photo added. Excuse excessive lubrication which has helped some.

    – Claud
    1 hour ago













1












1








1








enter image description hereI bought a bike on Ebay which has a Sora groupset. The rear derailleur is noisy and jumps in and out of gears despite much tweaking. I've given up on it.



What derailleur can I buy that will work as a drop-in replace of the Sora derailleur without my having to also change the cassette or shifters?



The Sora is either medium or long cage - not sure which. It has approx 3.25 inches between jockey wheel centers.



Cassette has 32 teeth on largest ring.



EDIT: Just found someone else with the same problem. Mine sounds much the same as this: Noisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)



TY!










share|improve this question









New contributor




Claud is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












enter image description hereI bought a bike on Ebay which has a Sora groupset. The rear derailleur is noisy and jumps in and out of gears despite much tweaking. I've given up on it.



What derailleur can I buy that will work as a drop-in replace of the Sora derailleur without my having to also change the cassette or shifters?



The Sora is either medium or long cage - not sure which. It has approx 3.25 inches between jockey wheel centers.



Cassette has 32 teeth on largest ring.



EDIT: Just found someone else with the same problem. Mine sounds much the same as this: Noisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)



TY!







shimano derailleur-rear






share|improve this question









New contributor




Claud is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




Claud is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 1 hour ago







Claud













New contributor




Claud is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 2 hours ago









ClaudClaud

1084




1084




New contributor




Claud is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





Claud is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Claud is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












  • That's not inherent to 9 speed sora - I've got the same. I assume it's clean, but has it done a lot of distance? How old are the cables?

    – Chris H
    2 hours ago











  • I've read positive reviews on the Sora - is it possible the derailleur or the derailleur hanger is bent?

    – David D
    2 hours ago












  • Photo added. Excuse excessive lubrication which has helped some.

    – Claud
    1 hour ago

















  • That's not inherent to 9 speed sora - I've got the same. I assume it's clean, but has it done a lot of distance? How old are the cables?

    – Chris H
    2 hours ago











  • I've read positive reviews on the Sora - is it possible the derailleur or the derailleur hanger is bent?

    – David D
    2 hours ago












  • Photo added. Excuse excessive lubrication which has helped some.

    – Claud
    1 hour ago
















That's not inherent to 9 speed sora - I've got the same. I assume it's clean, but has it done a lot of distance? How old are the cables?

– Chris H
2 hours ago





That's not inherent to 9 speed sora - I've got the same. I assume it's clean, but has it done a lot of distance? How old are the cables?

– Chris H
2 hours ago













I've read positive reviews on the Sora - is it possible the derailleur or the derailleur hanger is bent?

– David D
2 hours ago






I've read positive reviews on the Sora - is it possible the derailleur or the derailleur hanger is bent?

– David D
2 hours ago














Photo added. Excuse excessive lubrication which has helped some.

– Claud
1 hour ago





Photo added. Excuse excessive lubrication which has helped some.

– Claud
1 hour ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















2














For 9-speed (or 10-speed, which uses the same actuation and usually works fine in this instance) with native 32t clearance, the options for a Shimano road group model are pretty limited due to how the chronology played out with 32t road cassette being a thing. A lot of the 11-speed road GS cage derailers can clear 32, but they won't work with your shifter. The one you have and Claris RD-2400-GS may be the only nominally road ones that would work as a drop in replacement. RD-2400 is okay, barely.



Another answer is to get any GS or SGS (much more common) mountain 9-speed derailleur, which are compatible because Shimano 9-speed mountain and road rear derailleurs use the same actuation ratio, and all the 9-speed mountain RDs clear a 32. Of these there are a lot of choices; some currently produced ones are RD-M590, RD-M591, RD-M4000, and RD-M772. The XT RD-M772 may be the only one currently produced that comes in mid-cage/GS like you presumably need. That would be a good choice for a bike that's going to get used a lot.



Of note is that it's exceedingly common for rear derailleur hanger alignment as well as cable issues to cause the problems you're talking about, and you really shouldn't go to replacing the derailleur until those are eliminated as possibilities, unless you can tell the RD itself is obviously bent or slopped out, which does happen. And if the RD itself is bent, usually the hanger will be too from whatever incident(s) caused it, which will need addressing for a new RD to work correctly.






share|improve this answer

























  • Thank you! I have now added a photo of the offending item. It's clagged with GT85 which has helped a little. Can you tell if it's bent or otherwise badly configured?

    – Claud
    1 hour ago











  • If it is bent, it's not by much. It's hard to tell from a picture. Cable friction or other issues are common too. Another test is to grab the RD and test for slop in the various pivots, which can cause poor shifting.

    – Nathan Knutson
    1 hour ago



















1














As a sort of addendum to Nathan Knutson's answer, focusing on things to do before replacing the derailleur.



  1. Make sure wheel is fully in the dropouts and parallel to the frame.


  2. Properly and clean the drivetrain with a degreaser and apply a bike chain specific lubricant, not WD-40, GT85 etc. There are many videos that show how to do this.


  3. Check hanger alignment. From the photo it looks pretty good (cage should be parallel to the chainrings). It might be worth getting a bike store to check it with a hanger realignment tool.


  4. Replace cables and housings. Stretchy cables and sticky housings can cause the derailleur to not index properly.


  5. Run through a systematic derailleur adjustment process.


  6. Check chain and cassette wear.






share|improve this answer























    Your Answer








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    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes








    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    2














    For 9-speed (or 10-speed, which uses the same actuation and usually works fine in this instance) with native 32t clearance, the options for a Shimano road group model are pretty limited due to how the chronology played out with 32t road cassette being a thing. A lot of the 11-speed road GS cage derailers can clear 32, but they won't work with your shifter. The one you have and Claris RD-2400-GS may be the only nominally road ones that would work as a drop in replacement. RD-2400 is okay, barely.



    Another answer is to get any GS or SGS (much more common) mountain 9-speed derailleur, which are compatible because Shimano 9-speed mountain and road rear derailleurs use the same actuation ratio, and all the 9-speed mountain RDs clear a 32. Of these there are a lot of choices; some currently produced ones are RD-M590, RD-M591, RD-M4000, and RD-M772. The XT RD-M772 may be the only one currently produced that comes in mid-cage/GS like you presumably need. That would be a good choice for a bike that's going to get used a lot.



    Of note is that it's exceedingly common for rear derailleur hanger alignment as well as cable issues to cause the problems you're talking about, and you really shouldn't go to replacing the derailleur until those are eliminated as possibilities, unless you can tell the RD itself is obviously bent or slopped out, which does happen. And if the RD itself is bent, usually the hanger will be too from whatever incident(s) caused it, which will need addressing for a new RD to work correctly.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Thank you! I have now added a photo of the offending item. It's clagged with GT85 which has helped a little. Can you tell if it's bent or otherwise badly configured?

      – Claud
      1 hour ago











    • If it is bent, it's not by much. It's hard to tell from a picture. Cable friction or other issues are common too. Another test is to grab the RD and test for slop in the various pivots, which can cause poor shifting.

      – Nathan Knutson
      1 hour ago
















    2














    For 9-speed (or 10-speed, which uses the same actuation and usually works fine in this instance) with native 32t clearance, the options for a Shimano road group model are pretty limited due to how the chronology played out with 32t road cassette being a thing. A lot of the 11-speed road GS cage derailers can clear 32, but they won't work with your shifter. The one you have and Claris RD-2400-GS may be the only nominally road ones that would work as a drop in replacement. RD-2400 is okay, barely.



    Another answer is to get any GS or SGS (much more common) mountain 9-speed derailleur, which are compatible because Shimano 9-speed mountain and road rear derailleurs use the same actuation ratio, and all the 9-speed mountain RDs clear a 32. Of these there are a lot of choices; some currently produced ones are RD-M590, RD-M591, RD-M4000, and RD-M772. The XT RD-M772 may be the only one currently produced that comes in mid-cage/GS like you presumably need. That would be a good choice for a bike that's going to get used a lot.



    Of note is that it's exceedingly common for rear derailleur hanger alignment as well as cable issues to cause the problems you're talking about, and you really shouldn't go to replacing the derailleur until those are eliminated as possibilities, unless you can tell the RD itself is obviously bent or slopped out, which does happen. And if the RD itself is bent, usually the hanger will be too from whatever incident(s) caused it, which will need addressing for a new RD to work correctly.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Thank you! I have now added a photo of the offending item. It's clagged with GT85 which has helped a little. Can you tell if it's bent or otherwise badly configured?

      – Claud
      1 hour ago











    • If it is bent, it's not by much. It's hard to tell from a picture. Cable friction or other issues are common too. Another test is to grab the RD and test for slop in the various pivots, which can cause poor shifting.

      – Nathan Knutson
      1 hour ago














    2












    2








    2







    For 9-speed (or 10-speed, which uses the same actuation and usually works fine in this instance) with native 32t clearance, the options for a Shimano road group model are pretty limited due to how the chronology played out with 32t road cassette being a thing. A lot of the 11-speed road GS cage derailers can clear 32, but they won't work with your shifter. The one you have and Claris RD-2400-GS may be the only nominally road ones that would work as a drop in replacement. RD-2400 is okay, barely.



    Another answer is to get any GS or SGS (much more common) mountain 9-speed derailleur, which are compatible because Shimano 9-speed mountain and road rear derailleurs use the same actuation ratio, and all the 9-speed mountain RDs clear a 32. Of these there are a lot of choices; some currently produced ones are RD-M590, RD-M591, RD-M4000, and RD-M772. The XT RD-M772 may be the only one currently produced that comes in mid-cage/GS like you presumably need. That would be a good choice for a bike that's going to get used a lot.



    Of note is that it's exceedingly common for rear derailleur hanger alignment as well as cable issues to cause the problems you're talking about, and you really shouldn't go to replacing the derailleur until those are eliminated as possibilities, unless you can tell the RD itself is obviously bent or slopped out, which does happen. And if the RD itself is bent, usually the hanger will be too from whatever incident(s) caused it, which will need addressing for a new RD to work correctly.






    share|improve this answer















    For 9-speed (or 10-speed, which uses the same actuation and usually works fine in this instance) with native 32t clearance, the options for a Shimano road group model are pretty limited due to how the chronology played out with 32t road cassette being a thing. A lot of the 11-speed road GS cage derailers can clear 32, but they won't work with your shifter. The one you have and Claris RD-2400-GS may be the only nominally road ones that would work as a drop in replacement. RD-2400 is okay, barely.



    Another answer is to get any GS or SGS (much more common) mountain 9-speed derailleur, which are compatible because Shimano 9-speed mountain and road rear derailleurs use the same actuation ratio, and all the 9-speed mountain RDs clear a 32. Of these there are a lot of choices; some currently produced ones are RD-M590, RD-M591, RD-M4000, and RD-M772. The XT RD-M772 may be the only one currently produced that comes in mid-cage/GS like you presumably need. That would be a good choice for a bike that's going to get used a lot.



    Of note is that it's exceedingly common for rear derailleur hanger alignment as well as cable issues to cause the problems you're talking about, and you really shouldn't go to replacing the derailleur until those are eliminated as possibilities, unless you can tell the RD itself is obviously bent or slopped out, which does happen. And if the RD itself is bent, usually the hanger will be too from whatever incident(s) caused it, which will need addressing for a new RD to work correctly.







    share|improve this answer














    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer








    edited 1 hour ago

























    answered 2 hours ago









    Nathan KnutsonNathan Knutson

    24.5k12062




    24.5k12062












    • Thank you! I have now added a photo of the offending item. It's clagged with GT85 which has helped a little. Can you tell if it's bent or otherwise badly configured?

      – Claud
      1 hour ago











    • If it is bent, it's not by much. It's hard to tell from a picture. Cable friction or other issues are common too. Another test is to grab the RD and test for slop in the various pivots, which can cause poor shifting.

      – Nathan Knutson
      1 hour ago


















    • Thank you! I have now added a photo of the offending item. It's clagged with GT85 which has helped a little. Can you tell if it's bent or otherwise badly configured?

      – Claud
      1 hour ago











    • If it is bent, it's not by much. It's hard to tell from a picture. Cable friction or other issues are common too. Another test is to grab the RD and test for slop in the various pivots, which can cause poor shifting.

      – Nathan Knutson
      1 hour ago

















    Thank you! I have now added a photo of the offending item. It's clagged with GT85 which has helped a little. Can you tell if it's bent or otherwise badly configured?

    – Claud
    1 hour ago





    Thank you! I have now added a photo of the offending item. It's clagged with GT85 which has helped a little. Can you tell if it's bent or otherwise badly configured?

    – Claud
    1 hour ago













    If it is bent, it's not by much. It's hard to tell from a picture. Cable friction or other issues are common too. Another test is to grab the RD and test for slop in the various pivots, which can cause poor shifting.

    – Nathan Knutson
    1 hour ago






    If it is bent, it's not by much. It's hard to tell from a picture. Cable friction or other issues are common too. Another test is to grab the RD and test for slop in the various pivots, which can cause poor shifting.

    – Nathan Knutson
    1 hour ago












    1














    As a sort of addendum to Nathan Knutson's answer, focusing on things to do before replacing the derailleur.



    1. Make sure wheel is fully in the dropouts and parallel to the frame.


    2. Properly and clean the drivetrain with a degreaser and apply a bike chain specific lubricant, not WD-40, GT85 etc. There are many videos that show how to do this.


    3. Check hanger alignment. From the photo it looks pretty good (cage should be parallel to the chainrings). It might be worth getting a bike store to check it with a hanger realignment tool.


    4. Replace cables and housings. Stretchy cables and sticky housings can cause the derailleur to not index properly.


    5. Run through a systematic derailleur adjustment process.


    6. Check chain and cassette wear.






    share|improve this answer



























      1














      As a sort of addendum to Nathan Knutson's answer, focusing on things to do before replacing the derailleur.



      1. Make sure wheel is fully in the dropouts and parallel to the frame.


      2. Properly and clean the drivetrain with a degreaser and apply a bike chain specific lubricant, not WD-40, GT85 etc. There are many videos that show how to do this.


      3. Check hanger alignment. From the photo it looks pretty good (cage should be parallel to the chainrings). It might be worth getting a bike store to check it with a hanger realignment tool.


      4. Replace cables and housings. Stretchy cables and sticky housings can cause the derailleur to not index properly.


      5. Run through a systematic derailleur adjustment process.


      6. Check chain and cassette wear.






      share|improve this answer

























        1












        1








        1







        As a sort of addendum to Nathan Knutson's answer, focusing on things to do before replacing the derailleur.



        1. Make sure wheel is fully in the dropouts and parallel to the frame.


        2. Properly and clean the drivetrain with a degreaser and apply a bike chain specific lubricant, not WD-40, GT85 etc. There are many videos that show how to do this.


        3. Check hanger alignment. From the photo it looks pretty good (cage should be parallel to the chainrings). It might be worth getting a bike store to check it with a hanger realignment tool.


        4. Replace cables and housings. Stretchy cables and sticky housings can cause the derailleur to not index properly.


        5. Run through a systematic derailleur adjustment process.


        6. Check chain and cassette wear.






        share|improve this answer













        As a sort of addendum to Nathan Knutson's answer, focusing on things to do before replacing the derailleur.



        1. Make sure wheel is fully in the dropouts and parallel to the frame.


        2. Properly and clean the drivetrain with a degreaser and apply a bike chain specific lubricant, not WD-40, GT85 etc. There are many videos that show how to do this.


        3. Check hanger alignment. From the photo it looks pretty good (cage should be parallel to the chainrings). It might be worth getting a bike store to check it with a hanger realignment tool.


        4. Replace cables and housings. Stretchy cables and sticky housings can cause the derailleur to not index properly.


        5. Run through a systematic derailleur adjustment process.


        6. Check chain and cassette wear.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 14 mins ago









        Argenti ApparatusArgenti Apparatus

        36.7k23891




        36.7k23891




















            Claud is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









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            inputenc: Unicode character … not set up for use with LaTeX The Next CEO of Stack OverflowEntering Unicode characters in LaTeXHow to solve the `Package inputenc Error: Unicode char not set up for use with LaTeX` problem?solve “Unicode char is not set up for use with LaTeX” without special handling of every new interesting UTF-8 characterPackage inputenc Error: Unicode character ² (U+B2)(inputenc) not set up for use with LaTeX. acroI2C[I²C]package inputenc error unicode char (u + 190) not set up for use with latexPackage inputenc Error: Unicode char u8:′ not set up for use with LaTeX. 3′inputenc Error: Unicode char u8: not set up for use with LaTeX with G-BriefPackage Inputenc Error: Unicode char u8: not set up for use with LaTeXPackage inputenc Error: Unicode char ́ (U+301)(inputenc) not set up for use with LaTeX. includePackage inputenc Error: Unicode char ̂ (U+302)(inputenc) not set up for use with LaTeX. … $widehatleft (OA,AA' right )$Package inputenc Error: Unicode char â„¡ (U+2121)(inputenc) not set up for use with LaTeX. printbibliography[heading=bibintoc]Package inputenc Error: Unicode char − (U+2212)(inputenc) not set up for use with LaTeXPackage inputenc Error: Unicode character α (U+3B1) not set up for use with LaTeXPackage inputenc Error: Unicode characterError: ! Package inputenc Error: Unicode char ⊘ (U+2298)(inputenc) not set up for use with LaTeX