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How to unfasten electrical subpanel attached with ramset
The Next CEO of Stack OverflowTips for removing drywall from bottom of closet headerWhat type of wire for subpanel in attached garage?Am I likely to be able to run a circuit from this panel for an EV charger?Basement leak behind electrical panelelectrical service to a shipping container workshopSafest way of temporarily working with a failed 4-wire outbuilding subpanel (one missing hot leg, neutral bonded ground on both ends)?What are good uses for tandem (double-stuff) breakers?no ground bar in electrical subpanelElectrical design for a house with an ADU, solar, and backup generatorTemporarily relocating an electrical panel while rebuilding a room
I'm getting ready to frame out a wall in my basement that has an electrical subpanel. I would like to move the panel out an inch or so, so I can frame around it and it will be flush with the finished wall. There is plenty of room and extra cable above so that I shouldn't need to rewire anything. My original plan was to remove cover, frame around it, turn off power, unscrew panel and slide it forward, reattach to studs, replace cover, turn power back on. But, the builders attached it with a ramset directly to the concrete! So, does anyone have any ideas on how to get that thing removed without having to disconnect all of the wiring to get a prybar in there? There might be enough clearance to get a sawsall blade behind the box and cut the nails from there, but I wouldn't bet on it. Any other ideas would be much appreciated.
electrical-panel fastener metal-cutting
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
50.9k460129
asked 2 hours ago
CropdusterCropduster
1161
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Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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add a comment |
I'm getting ready to frame out a wall in my basement that has an electrical subpanel. I would like to move the panel out an inch or so, so I can frame around it and it will be flush with the finished wall. There is plenty of room and extra cable above so that I shouldn't need to rewire anything. My original plan was to remove cover, frame around it, turn off power, unscrew panel and slide it forward, reattach to studs, replace cover, turn power back on. But, the builders attached it with a ramset directly to the concrete! So, does anyone have any ideas on how to get that thing removed without having to disconnect all of the wiring to get a prybar in there? There might be enough clearance to get a sawsall blade behind the box and cut the nails from there, but I wouldn't bet on it. Any other ideas would be much appreciated.
electrical-panel fastener metal-cutting
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
50.9k460129
asked 2 hours ago
CropdusterCropduster
1161
New contributor
Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
I'm getting ready to frame out a wall in my basement that has an electrical subpanel. I would like to move the panel out an inch or so, so I can frame around it and it will be flush with the finished wall. There is plenty of room and extra cable above so that I shouldn't need to rewire anything. My original plan was to remove cover, frame around it, turn off power, unscrew panel and slide it forward, reattach to studs, replace cover, turn power back on. But, the builders attached it with a ramset directly to the concrete! So, does anyone have any ideas on how to get that thing removed without having to disconnect all of the wiring to get a prybar in there? There might be enough clearance to get a sawsall blade behind the box and cut the nails from there, but I wouldn't bet on it. Any other ideas would be much appreciated.
electrical-panel fastener metal-cutting
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
50.9k460129
asked 2 hours ago
CropdusterCropduster
1161
New contributor
Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I'm getting ready to frame out a wall in my basement that has an electrical subpanel. I would like to move the panel out an inch or so, so I can frame around it and it will be flush with the finished wall. There is plenty of room and extra cable above so that I shouldn't need to rewire anything. My original plan was to remove cover, frame around it, turn off power, unscrew panel and slide it forward, reattach to studs, replace cover, turn power back on. But, the builders attached it with a ramset directly to the concrete! So, does anyone have any ideas on how to get that thing removed without having to disconnect all of the wiring to get a prybar in there? There might be enough clearance to get a sawsall blade behind the box and cut the nails from there, but I wouldn't bet on it. Any other ideas would be much appreciated.
electrical-panel fastener metal-cutting
electrical-panel fastener metal-cutting
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
50.9k460129
asked 2 hours ago
CropdusterCropduster
1161
New contributor
Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
50.9k460129
asked 2 hours ago
CropdusterCropduster
1161
New contributor
Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
50.9k460129
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
50.9k460129
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
50.9k460129
50.9k460129
asked 2 hours ago
CropdusterCropduster
1161
New contributor
Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 2 hours ago
CropdusterCropduster
1161
asked 2 hours ago
CropdusterCropduster
1161
1161
New contributor
Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.
Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.
Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.
Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.9k460129
2
A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.
– isherwood
50 mins ago
add a comment |
You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.
answered 1 hour ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
4,925328
I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.
– isherwood
51 mins ago
Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.
– Joe Fala
37 mins ago
It would be stupendously hard to start. Been there tried that.
– Harper
28 mins ago
Not if it fit fairly snugly over the nail head. A 1/2" bit might be just the ticket.
– isherwood
21 mins ago
add a comment |
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.
Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.
Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.
Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.9k460129
2
A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.
– isherwood
50 mins ago
add a comment |
Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.
Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.
Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.
Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.9k460129
2
A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.
– isherwood
50 mins ago
add a comment |
Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.
Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.
Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.
Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.9k460129
Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.
Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.
Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.
Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.9k460129
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.9k460129
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.9k460129
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.9k460129
50.9k460129
2
A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.
– isherwood
50 mins ago
add a comment |
2
A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.
– isherwood
50 mins ago
2
2
A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.
– isherwood
50 mins ago
You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.
– isherwood
50 mins ago
add a comment |
You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.
answered 1 hour ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
4,925328
I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.
– isherwood
51 mins ago
Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.
– Joe Fala
37 mins ago
It would be stupendously hard to start. Been there tried that.
– Harper
28 mins ago
Not if it fit fairly snugly over the nail head. A 1/2" bit might be just the ticket.
– isherwood
21 mins ago
add a comment |
You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.
answered 1 hour ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
4,925328
I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.
– isherwood
51 mins ago
Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.
– Joe Fala
37 mins ago
It would be stupendously hard to start. Been there tried that.
– Harper
28 mins ago
Not if it fit fairly snugly over the nail head. A 1/2" bit might be just the ticket.
– isherwood
21 mins ago
add a comment |
You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.
answered 1 hour ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
4,925328
You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.
answered 1 hour ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
4,925328
answered 1 hour ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
4,925328
answered 1 hour ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
4,925328
answered 1 hour ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
4,925328
4,925328
I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.
– isherwood
51 mins ago
Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.
– Joe Fala
37 mins ago
It would be stupendously hard to start. Been there tried that.
– Harper
28 mins ago
Not if it fit fairly snugly over the nail head. A 1/2" bit might be just the ticket.
– isherwood
21 mins ago
add a comment |
I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.
– isherwood
51 mins ago
Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.
– Joe Fala
37 mins ago
It would be stupendously hard to start. Been there tried that.
– Harper
28 mins ago
Not if it fit fairly snugly over the nail head. A 1/2" bit might be just the ticket.
– isherwood
21 mins ago
I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.
– isherwood
51 mins ago
I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.
– isherwood
51 mins ago
Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.
– Joe Fala
37 mins ago
Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.
– Joe Fala
37 mins ago
It would be stupendously hard to start. Been there tried that.
– Harper
28 mins ago
It would be stupendously hard to start. Been there tried that.
– Harper
28 mins ago
Not if it fit fairly snugly over the nail head. A 1/2" bit might be just the ticket.
– isherwood
21 mins ago
Not if it fit fairly snugly over the nail head. A 1/2" bit might be just the ticket.
– isherwood
21 mins ago
add a comment |
Cropduster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Cropduster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Cropduster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Cropduster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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